So I’ve been thinking about burgers lately — just in time for Fourth of July grilling, right?
Well, wrong, apparently.
I haven’t been especially happy with the burgers I’ve made on the grill lately, so I’ve been taking a look at some local chef-made burgers, like this one, from Black Market:
Or this one, from Plow & Anchor:
And then I came across this Sam Sifton article and video from the New York Times on how to cook a burger. The article quotes Michael Symon, whose B Spot burger joints, the article says, each serve more than 1,000 burgers a night. (And the Iron Chef will be bringing a B Spot location to Indianapolis too.)
According to Symon, we shouldn’t be cooking burgers on a grill. “A grill is too difficult,” he says in the New York Times piece. “A hot skillet is what you want.”
At Symon’s B Spot restaurants, the article says, all burgers are “finished on a flat-top griddle coated in beef fat.”
I just told someone the other day that I hadn’t made burgers inside in ages, but I’m definitely going to make some in an iron skillet soon. Although as Sifton points out, you can certainly put the skillet on the grill and cook it outside.
The key, apparently, is the beef fat from the 80/20 hamburger blend that functions, he says, “like a primitive high-heat confit.”
So that’s how I’ll be cooking my Fourth of July burgers. — Jolene Ketzenberger